One Day in Big Cypress National Preserve

Big Cypress National Preserve is a 729,000 acre area nestled right along Everglades National Park in southern Florida. It’s a similar* area with even more activities available, so it’s easy to spend one day in Big Cypress National Preserve no matter what you are interested in – honestly, you can spend much longer if you have the time! In this guide I’ll give you my one day itinerary while also providing some direction for things to do in Big Cypress if you have more time.

First off, Big Cypress has a seemingly similar* ecosystem with similar activities to the Everglades, so why isn’t it part of the national park? It’s designation as a national preserve actually means that more activities are allowed, and the terrain isn’t as similar as it may seem. It was the nation’s first Preserve (granted status alongside Big Thicket National Preserve in Texas) in 1974, while the Everglades became a National Park in 1947.

There a a few huge distinctions between the two designations, one of the most important being the use of the land. For example, the Miccosukee and people were granted permanent rights to occupy and use the land in traditional ways (kind of the US government considered we took it in the first place…); in addition, they have first rights to develop income-producing businesses related the preserve in any way. Off-roading is also a hugely popular activity. Unfortunately, these looser land rights also mean oil drilling is allowed in Big Cypress, although it doesn’t interfere with most visitor’s experiences, so they wouldn’t know (if you read the article, you’ll know where I stand on this issue).

*Many of the same species reside in both areas, but Big Cypress is mostly a cypress swamp (from rainwater) while the Everglades is a prairie with slow moving, shallow water created by overflow from Lake Okeechobee.

One Day in Big Cypress National Preserve

Big Cypress National Preserve has a whopping eight campgrounds for visitors to utilize (not including backcountry areas); however, they are not all open year round or to all types of camping, so be sure to review their locations and hours before booking and finalizing plans. My day in Big Cypress National Preserve started at my campground, Midway. It’s one of the only ones open during the warmer months in southern Florida (May-September), but it’s in a central area, so it works.

Midway Campground is a gorgeous camp with a central body of water and (some) cooling trees. (The cooling trees don’t really help in the middle of the day when the sun is dead overhead, though!) In the morning, you may be treated to wildlife in the water, like alligators (but most likely birds). The biggest downside to this campground is the lack of showers and washing area. There are a few restroom stalls, drinking water, and a dump area, but I couldn’t even wash my dishes properly, which I really needed to do*.

*Story time: The campsites are a decent distance apart, but also a little close for people like me who are used to space. While I was cooking breakfast, I put my cooler on the other side of the Jeep so it would be in the shade (I was at the picnic table in the sun). I had to go back and forth to the cooler a few times, and the fourth time I went my neighbors decided to talk to me (after some previous head nods). Remember, I’m cooking breakfast, and at this point it’s almost done. We chatted for a few minutes about mundane things (it was a husband and wife, and the husband mostly talked about himself, his son, and their camp items).I responded appropriately, but every time there was a lull, I said something and made to walk away. But he just wasn’t getting it and kept talking about something else! After at least TEN minutes, his wife finally said something, and I was released from my social obligation. By that point, my food had completely stuck to the pan. With no way to wash it I let it sit with water while I drove around. Unfortunately, the pan had to be tossed anyway. All thanks to trying to be a polite human, lol.

Star Gazing/Seeing the Night Sky

Anyway, since I camped out, my day started at night. As of 2016, Big Cypress National Preserve is a designated International Dark Sky Place, the first National Park site east of Colorado with that designation (Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park in Central Florida, designated earlier in 2016, was the first International Dark Sky Place in Florida just a few months prior). None of my photos turned out well, but most places in the preserve will provide some lovely views*.

With so much urbanization in the United States, it’s becoming increasingly difficult to enjoy the night sky without light pollution, and the preserve has one of the last protected night skies visitors can enjoy with the naked eye. Staff worked hard to reach this designation, and you can enjoy the skies with them on some of their free astronomy programs (the best thing to do for untrained eyes to see the most!). For more info on dark skies, visit the granting entity International Dark-Sky Association (IDA).

*Some spots include Kirby Storter boardwalk, Seagrape Drive, and Burns Lake.

Sunrise

I must admit, I slept through sunrise, so I can’t recommend THE best spot. Especially considering there are so many trees that provide cover and obstruct views. My plan was to find a body of water that had some open space around it, which means if you want to start with sunset, you might need to do some early morning hiking. You can also just find a nice spot along the roadsides and relax!

Turner River Loop & H. P. Williams Roadside Park

Before we get the day fully going, I want to mention three things: (1) There will be some back and forth driving if you follow this Big Cypress National Preserve itinerary exactly. This extra driving is necessary because there are a couple of places with set hours that just don’t work if you want to get up a little early or stay out a little later! If you don’t want to go in the visitors centers/art gallery or are content seeing what’s outside, then go to Nathanial P. Reed Visitor Center (listed as Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center in Google Maps) before Turner River Loop. (2) I didn’t do Turner Loop because I actually thought Loop Road was the same as Turner Loop, but I realized too late they are not the same. (3) This is my rough itinerary, but I have some thoughts about certain activities after the itinerary section of the post.

When sunrise finishes, head over to the start of Turner River Loop (there’s a quick map of the spots!). Either entrance works, but I would start at mile 0 and wander around H. P. Williams Roadside Park first. It’s a tiny park with a short boardwalk offering visitors views of the cypress swamp, waterways, and tons of wildlife (alligators, egrets, herons, hawks, and turtles are some examples). If you are in a time crunch, skip the park.

Anhingas (fantastically called snakebirds because of how they swim in the water) are common along Turner River Loop. If you visit Everglades National Park, you are even more likely to see an anhinga, but they are very cool and unique birds – they need to dry off their wings by spreading them out and getting air on them because they don’t have oil glands. Along this road, you can also experience sawgrass, palm trees, slash pines, dozens of bird species, alligators, and other flora and fauna. It will likely require a significant amount of stops, starts, and exiting/entering your car though (due to the high dust and the way the loop is laid out).

7.1 miles down the road, you’ll turn west (left) onto Wagon Wheel Road (just past Concho Billie Trail). At mile 10.1, the road will curve onto Birdon Road. In addition to the sites you’ll see throughout the drive, there is a SWAMP Classroom, which is usually reserved for educational purposes. Sometimes special events and ranger led programs are held there, though. After 16 miles, you’ll end up back at Tamiami Trail (close to the Welcome Center, which should be open – depending on the time of year). Plan for at least an hour and a half depending on stops.

Note: If you are interested in off-roading, two of the fifteen open paths are along this drive. I’m not an off-roader, but the National Park Service has all the info you may want on it.

Nathaniel P. Reed/Big Cypress Swamp Visitor Center

One mile from the end of Turner Loop is Nathaniel P. Reed Visitor Center (also known as Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center). It’s open from 9am-4:30pm. The main draw of this visitor center for most people is the overlook behind the building. I didn’t see any wildlife, but if you are lucky you will! Manatees can be seen here, as well as the typical alligators, birds, turtles, etc. (but manatees!). I also recommend heading inside to the auditorium and seeing some artwork on the walls – but then again, I love art/photography. You won’t need to spend much time here – maybe 20 minutes at most.

Post Office

Why visit a post office you ask? Because it’s the smallest post office building in the US. And why not stop when you are driving right past? It’ll be a few minute stop unless there is a line. Joanie’s Blue Crab Café is across the street and is a pretty popular visitor spot, but it really caters to omnivores. There’s a portabella sandwich that might be veg-friendly, but since I don’t like mushrooms I didn’t stop.

Kirby Storter Roadside Park

If you do one walk/trail, it should be the boardwalk at Kirby Storter. It’s a one mile loop through sawgrass prairie and cypress swamp (without getting wet, which is unique), but the main feature is a gator hole. Gator holes are pools dug out by alligators to ensure they have a source of water in the dry season, and it becomes an oasis of sorts for wildlife of all types. Expect to spend 30 minutes here.

Oasis Visitor Center

The boardwalk here is practically iconic. Alligators, alligators, and more alligators are what people flock here to see, and they are rarely disappointed (especially from December to May). For me, the alligators were cool, but I fell in love with the birds, specifically the black-crowned night heron hiding in one of the trees (pictured above). I think I spent 20 minutes with him! I even came back to see if he was still there (he wasn’t, but there was a heron and plenty of alligators every time I stopped).

Clyde Butcher Big Cypress Gallery

Even if you aren’t interested in the creative arts/photography, Clyde Butcher’s gallery is a fantastic stop because you get to see Big Cypress and the Everglades captured amazingly. Many of the photos in the gallery are breathtaking – plus, there is a trail in the back, photo tours, a swamp tour, and even lodging. To get here, you’ll have to go slightly past Loop Road, then head backwards, but I thoroughly enjoyed the stop here.

Loop Road Scenic Drive

Loop Road Scenic Drive starts at where Monroe Station used to be. It started as a service station, then became an inn and tavern, closed due to structural issues, was added to the National Register of Historic Places, then burned down and removed! It is 15 miles east of Big Cypress Swamp Visitor Center/Nathaniel P. Reed.

Along this road, you will see not only wildlife (like the typical alligators, birds, sawgrass, apparently river otters etc.), but the Everglades Conservation and Sportsman’s Club (really nothing special for visitors), several county lines, campgrounds, trails (like Gator Hook Trail and Tree Snail Hammock Trail), and more. Make sure to check road and weather conditions before driving on this trail because rain can make it unsafe (flood)! Plan for at least two hours depending on stops.

People rave about the alligator spots and sightings on Loop Road, but I much preferred Shark Valley, home to a few of the trails in Everglades National Park. I did see a few alligators and wildlife, but I got tired of hopping in and out of the car, honestly. After at least 15 stops (2-3 yielding wildlife), it got tedious. With that in mind, this drive is kind of iconic for a day in Big Cypress National Preserve, so I understand visiting regardless.

Are the Loop Roads (Turner and Loop) worth it?

Well, are you looking to experience wildlife? If yes, the loops were definitely not my favorite way to see fauna. If you are only going to Big Cypress National Preserve, they might be worth the time simply because you will have a chance to see more, but you will have to get out of the car every few feet, at least on the Loop Road. It’s also very dusty – very. Your car will be an absolute mess. The same is true for Turner Loop.

Don’t get me wrong, I got some nice photos and experiences from Loop Road, like seeing the “remains” of Pinecrest (the remnants of a town – spoiler, there’s still a bunch of houses with people living in them, so it’s not as cool as it sounds). However, I would save my time and drive into the National Park to see more, but that’s just me!

Spending Longer Than One Day in Big Cypress National Preserve

For most visitors to the area, one day in Big Cypress National Preserve will be enough. However, if you want to take in more of the backcountry parts, you’ll want more time – you might even want more time to just see the area in different weather, which is great!

• Seeing South Florida by boat is usually the best way to truly see everything (if you ask pretty much anyone who lives there), so consider kayaking/canoeing or an airboat tour (not my preferred method, personally).
• There are few set trails in Big Cypress, but rangers do lead activities and programs if you are uncomfortable going “off the beaten path.”
• Off-roading is popular (but it has done some damage to the ecosystem). Make sure to have a permit.
• The road that runs through Big Cypress National Preserve, Tamiami Trail, runs from Miami to Tampa and has a few more stops outside of the preserve you might be interested in stopping at – but only to Naples, so it isn’t too long of a drive! ValuJet Flight 592 Memorial, a memorial to a plane crash in 1996, is six miles past Shark Valley Visitor Center. Shark Valley is four miles past the end of Loop Road Scenic Drive. On the other side of Tamiami Trail (US 41 here), you can make a detour in Everglades City (home of part of Everglades National Park), Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk in Fakahatchee Beach Preserve State Park, Marsh Trail in Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge, or Collier-Seminole State Park.

If you have more time in the area, I highly recommend heading into Everglades National Park. I’ve got itineraries, hikes, and full guide to Everglades National Park.

Let me know if you have any questions below! What you you be most interested in seeing/doing?

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